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Though if we did this again, we would tweak the print settings to cover for the layer gaps and holes, you can clearly see from this layer height test that you get notably better results at 0.1mm, with less prominent layer lines – which the Ender 3 V2 Neo handles without too much issue. Both printers use a Meanwell PSU which is a dependable power supply for fast heating and long hours of 3D printing. We have seen this first hand since none of our printers with these PSUs have needed replacements, while other machines with lower quality power supplies have died on us. Verdict The PC-coated flexible magnetic spring steel build plate on the Ender 3 V2 Neo offers excellent adhesion and a hassle-free usage experience. A little flex of the bed material is all it takes to separate the 3D prints. The smooth bed surface requires little to no cleaning. However, the bed surface is more susceptible to damage than other materials, and it can be difficult to remove prints in some cases. Not only does this eliminate the hassle of manual leveling, but it also produces a cleaner, more accurate first layer, which is vital for the overall quality and bed adhesion of the 3D print. This is also a great feature if you are new to 3D printing, since leveling the bed takes a bit of practice, but even as experienced users we appreciate this feature. Redesigned Hot End
Like a lot of the extrusion-type printers today, the Ender-3 V2 Neo’s default filament is PLA. But it’s also compatible with PETG and ABS. Although it gets the job done, we still feel like Creality can do better with this knob. Most 3D printers in this price range, like the Anycubic Kobra, now use touchscreens. Other Ender-3 V2 Neo Features Build Volume Unfortunately, PETG is extremely prone to stringing, which is why it is more difficult to print than PLA, for example. So calibrating the settings is a must. However, the values given above should provide a good starting point. For some PETG filaments, the settings might already be ideal. PETG filament is easy to print and is durable and stable. It is a good choice for printing items that are used regularly, such as tools or household items. It is also ideal for outdoor applications.
Overview
The Ender 3 Neo requires a substantial amount of work to assemble, even though Creality ships it partially assembled. Out of the box, it takes at least an hour to assemble and set up, and may take longer if you are not experienced with 3D printers.
The Ender 3 V2 Neo (and all of the Neo series) introduces a redesigned heat sink on the hot end, which provides more surface area and space between the fins to make sure the cold side of the hot end stays cool. This is important to make sure that filament doesn’t start to melt sooner than intended, which can cause jamming. While jams can be cleared pretty easily, they are inconvenient and will cause the print to fail, so this is a welcome addition. For the first print, I attempted one of the test prints included on the memory card. I used a third-party PLA filament; the print came out brittle and poorly cohesive. I tried again, this time using Ender filament, but try as I could, I couldn't get it to extrude. I expected that the extruder might be clogged, so I preheated the extruder to PLA melting temperature and took the long, very thin needle that Creality includes with the printer and poked it into the nozzle a few times. This cleared out the problem, and from then on the V2 extruded normally. In retrospect, I suspect the problem wasn't with the filament, but that the nozzle was set a little too close to the print bed, touching it in places so that filament wouldn't come out and causing the clog. Put the firmware file "Ender-3 V2 Neo-Marlin2.0.8.3-HW-V4.2.2-SW-V1.1.5.2-CR-Touch-20230312.bin" into the root directory of TF card. The Ender 3 V2 Neo similarly upgrades the Ender 3 V2. By and large, the V2 Neo offers the same functionality and features as the V2, with the biggest improvements being in terms of ease of setup and ease of use. Creality has made an effort to make this 3D printer as beginner-friendly as possible. In fact, it might just be one of the easiest 3D printers to get started with in its price segment.Even at higher speeds it mostly maintains high precision and quality, and honestly we pushed it way beyond the settings you should be using it at on a day-to-day, so a couple of the models that have small imperfects and gaps would have come out perfect if we’d ran the print on calmer settings. Both the Ender 3 Neo and Ender 3 V2 Neo feature a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, which is the standard size on most Ender 3 printers, including the previous non-Neo versions of these printers. It’s slightly larger than the 200 mm cube that most entry-level 3D printers offer, but the slight increase in size is beneficial in a few ways. First, these 3D printers occupy almost the same desktop area as their smaller cousins, meaning you won’t need to clear off a large desk space to use them. Second, the enlarged Z-axis allows 3D printing of models with a taller profile. With some creative planning, you can also print wider 3D prints alongside the Z-axis. The real test, though, is in the printing. If the object you're trying to print pulls off the bed, or if it adheres better on one side of the platform than the other, it's still out of alignment, and so you'll have to tweak it again. Also, even when it is set properly, the bed can lose alignment over time and have to be readjusted. Fortunately, with the Ender 3 V2 Neo, it is not complicated to ensure good print bed adhesion. Print bed leveling is simple and the print bed surface provides excellent adhesion for most filaments.
The Ender 3 V2 Neo has a Bowden extruder and is therefore not well suited for flexible filaments like TPU.
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In keeping with tradition, the newest upgrades to the Ender line—the Ender 3 Neo series—have once again managed to combine impressive performance, affordability, simple design, and ease of use in their devices. They give entry-level users everything they need to create excellent quality 3D prints and enjoy a superior learning experience. Next, we’ll look at the differences between these printers. Differences in the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo Full Metal Extruder The Ender 3 Neo is an update to the Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. It retains much of the form, function, and philosophy of the Ender 3 Pro, while making some notable updates without steeply pushing the price upward. Users get everything they loved about the Ender 3 Pro, along with some great new features, without having to pay much more. So, we printed the halloween mini-pumpkin on the left at 0.1 mm, and the one on the right at 0.2 mm. This is what they looked like.
The Ender-3 V2 Neo may not have a touch screen display, but there’s something to love about its user interface – the model preview function. It shows you a 3D colored image of what you’re about to print. Bear in mind that there’s a trade off between speed and precision. As you increase your print speed, you might see a fall in the quality of your 3D object. It is perfectly normal to need several passes until the optimal retraction settings are found. Conclusion
The inclusion of a full-metal, single-gear Bowden extruder is a very welcome upgrade that the two printers have received as part of the Neo update. The metal extruder increases the extrusion force and makes jams less likely, a common concern with plastic extruders in the older models that these 3D printers are replacing. This extruder does not offer all of the benefits of the dual gear extruders found on more premium printers like the CR-10 Pro, however we have found that it works very well and is a definite improvement over the plastic extruders in the older models. Automatic Bed Leveling Therefore, if you want the highest level of definition in your prints, try printing at the minimum layer height. The Ender-3 V2 Neo has a minimum layer height of 0.1 mm with the default being 0.2 mm, same as the original Ender range. As you can see, the quality of the print was consistent until around 100 – 120 mm/s. At this printing speed, we notice some inconsistencies in the bonding between the layers, and some slight stringing starts. But still, it wasn’t horrendous. Minimum Layer Height
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